Amateurs

I was recently watching a program about English Embroidery and the presenter said something along the lines of "not the work of mere housewives" and steam started rising from my ears. What he undoubdedly was talking about was beginner work. Things that are often referred to as amateurish.  And it started me thinking about the terms amateur and professional.

As I have never been paid (well not really, family don't coumt) for knitting or crochet I fall into the ranks of amateur, some might add the word talented, I couldn't possibly comment. I have embroidered semi-professionally (got paid in fabric, patterns and yarn) but I still wouldn't regard myself as professional.

I mean, I am an amateur, by the very definition of the word. It comes from one of the first words you learn to decline in latin "Amo" meaning to love (technically amo means I love, but I'm trying not to confuse things too much), it means to do something as a passtime, because you love it, the lacking expertise part is secondary, and really we need to use another word for that, "tyro" is a perfectly good word for novice or beginner, "dilletante" sounds too much like lounging around.

There is also the issue of value for work that I have been thinking about lately. Before the time of washing machines and vacuum cleaners housework without maids was long hard work, even today it's work, keepimg up with it, hobbies and a job can keep you exhausted, and some of those women, those housewives that presenter dismissed, not only cleaned and scrubbed and clothed their children, they also made things, some for charity, some for their local church (kneelers etc) and in many instances their work is considered trivial, belittled.  Yes, sometimes the colours were garish, think of the conditions, garish would stand out in firelight, garish brought a bright into sometimes drab lives, garish might have given that woman a smile, no-one can dismiss garish, it implies a playfulness that maybe we miss. Garish could also imply sales, that hank of embroidery thread that wasn't selling, thay could be got on a tight budget, but the woman could feel like she had done something, contributed.
And we forget this, these women carved time out of their days, time they could have spent doing something else, perhaps for themselves, to contribute and we then talk about this work as if it should be trivialised, and maybe they weren't amateurs, maybe they hated doing it, but we need to reframe how we think about this.

Also the world of art is strange. Many of the knitted pieces I've seen are works of art but we don't treat them as well as we should. I've seen pieces devalued in price by the seller, who doesn't seem to value their time or their work, and we let them in pursuit of cheap goods. I've seen knitted garments I'd prefer to see on my walls than some artworks that cost 100 times more.
Maybe we do need to put a price on crafts that propery reflects the work and artistry that goes on.

The other part we ignore about womens crafts is that it was the one acceptable way for women to create art. There is art to choice of colours, the work, the interplay of colours etc. And I'm pretty sure a lot of it answered an artistic yearning many women had, by making it into "useful" items they had an excuse, a reason, they could devote that time to this output, or I'm sure, in some instances, time when they could think, relax, while still technically doing something.

Two posts in one day after a few months away, well there was Christmas and then ill, I've had a cold/flu with added strep throat since early January. Plus a minor bike accident that caused my shoulder to flare, I have a few reviews that need me to add the links and check them, then they will be posted.  I'll probably set them up for once a month for a few months and may backdate a few.e

Knitter's Book of Yarn review

Knitter's Book of Yarn
Book Depository Dublin City Public Libraries
The Knitter's Book of Yarn - Clara Parkes

0307352161/9780307352163

I was about 20 pages in when I thought about buying it and by about 60 I had an order into the Book Depository for it.  I will admit that the patterns don't really fire me with huge enthuiasm but the information in this book is gold.

Yes, other authors have written on this theme, but Clara is like being in a good yarn shop with a friend who is very knowledgeable and who doesn't have a huge bias against pretty much any yarn, she sees the utility in almost every yarn and wants to share her enthuaism for it all.

The book opens up with an exploration of different fibers, starting with Protein fibers - wool, alpaca, silk etc; Cellulose Fibers - made from cotton, Linen, hemp etc; Celluostic - using industrial processes to create a fiber but deriving from natural materials like wood, bamboo, corn etc and then synthetic - nylon, acrylic etc.  She discusses the pros and cons of all the fibers.

Then the book moves on to production and I finally understand the difference between worsted and woolen spun.

Then the patterns, they are divided by ply, to encourage exploration of how this works with the yarn.

Starting with single ply yarns, there are the Maine Morning Mitts; Cabled Tea Cozy, honeycomb hat and Seascape Bolero.  The mitts are ribbed and pretty plain, the Tea Cozy is a good use for a small amount of luxury yarn and the honeycomb hat plays with textural stitches to create an interesting play with light.  The Seascape Bolero is not my aesthetic, I just don't like the way it sits and I think the buttons on the back would interfere with my comfort.

The next are two-ply yarns; Step ribbed stole in two different texture yarns; Baby Soft Cardigan; Optic Waves Shawl; Raspberry Rhapsody scarf; Vines Cardigan; Guernsey socks; Little Shells Socks; Endpapers Shawl and double thick mittens.  I like the pattern on the double thick mittens, simple but interesting; endpapers shawl shows an interesting use of some handpainted yarns and colour graduation; Little shells has texture from the ankle up; Guernsey socks are interesting textured again showing variation; Vines cardigan is an angora piece, not my thing, not into fluffy, the style is interesting and I could be tempted to knit it in a less fluffy yarn the Raspberry Rhapsody scarf is relatively simple but a nice showcase for a yarn; Optic waves uses the variegations in the yarn to accentuate the waves in the pattern. Baby Soft cardigan is for 3-24 months and is cute. The step Ribbed Stole would be a good piece against busier pieces.

Three ply yarns are the next logical step; opening with the Rhinebeck hat and Mitts, colourwork enters the game, using a variegated yarn with a plain to create a fair isle style.  I like elements of the Cabled Swing Cardi, the collar doesn't work for me, I'd be tempted to tweak.  Swirly o socks have a fairly simple pattern that would work with a lot of multi-coloured yarns.

Four-ply and more is next.  Beginning with a very simple baby hat; then more colourwork in the Norwegian Snail Mittens, which are playful and cute.  The Patchwork Carriage blanket works with stripes and textures. The girly tee uses hemp and is an interesting fairly plain pattern; two catnip toys make an appearance. Iris side-to-side sleeveless top is grafted together and then edged with vertical stripes.  Ripple and lace leaf linen basket liners have an interesting texture, deceptively plain  they would make a nice gift.  Princess Mitts are wrist warmers with a cabled back, ideal for a small amount of luxury.

Then we move to cabled yarns, plied yarns plied on themselves.  Wavy socks use cables in a loose way to create interesting movement. XOX vest is a tank top with cable detail down the middle and is a temptation for me to knit. Cabled Headband is pretty and useful, the butterfly mobius is an interesting piece for some luxurious yarn.

Textured yarns are up next. The chunky winter set uses a thick and thin yarn to good effect, the Architect's hat plays with colourwork and slip stitches in interesting ways. Diamonds and pearls shawl uses the strengths of the yarn involved to create a pretty piece.

Bouchle yarns has a honeycomb bag again using slip stitches for a colourwork pattern that compliments the yarn

Brushed yarns has a scaruffle that shows how two different yarns can produce two subtly different results.

Chenille uses a cotton chenille to produce a classic washcloth that looks lush.

The felt factor has a very pretty Calla Lily personal security nightmare bag. No way to fasten it but it's pretty.  The retro cloche is a small hat that pearches on your head and I would hate it.

Then she discusses care of fabrics and some other information.  There are a few errata

The book is a great resource of information and useful knowledge and I look forward to it being part of my collection.


This book was obtained from Dublin City Public Libraries where I work.  Dublin City Public Libraries pay my wages but offer me no inducements to write these reviews.

review of New Encyclopedia of Knitting Techniques

 New Encyclopedia of Knitting Techniques by Lesley Stanfield and Melody Griffiths.

 Inside the cover it states "a comprehensive visual guide to traditional and contemporary techniques" and I would be hard-pressed to disagree. There are no garment patterns in this book, this however is an excellent introduction to knitting and a comprehensive reference to most techniques for knitters. Illustrated with both diagrams and photographs. It's also described as a lightly updated edition of the best-selling "Encyclopedia of Knitting Techniques"

 Starting with the basics this book then goes into a variety of cast-ons, and a variety of techniques, along with advice on reading patterns and choosing patterns, though it does only show the threaded on method of adding beads. There is a section on design that's not comprehensive but good basics. The second part of the book is a stitch collection, along with most of these there are sample garments for inspiration. All of the stitch collection are charted as well as an explanation of how it works and how the fabric behaves with these patterns. They also provide a key to the patterns at the back, as well as a comprehensive index.

 This would be a good book for a beginner or intermediate knitter to expand their repertoire  More experienced knitters may also want it but it covers the same territory as a few others in the field. A good book, worth adding to your library as a reference if you need one, if I didn't have a comprehensive library of reference books I'd be buying this one to add to the collection. The only thing really missing is a bibliography or other recommended reading list.

 Obtained from Dublin City Public Libraries who pay me my wages but offer no inducement to write these.

Cast on, Bind Off review

Book Depository

I got a free time limited copy of this title from the publishers, Storey Publications, via Net Galley in exchange for a review.

This book is interesting in that it looks at one topic, cast ons and bind offs, the book is basically divided in two, cast ons and bind offs, starting with cast ons. They're then divided into various headings.  Basic, stretchy, decorative, circular, double-sided, multicolour, provisional, tubular and mobius.

Part two is bind-offs, again basic, stretchy, decorative and sewn.

The two column layout in some parts makes reading this as an e-book an exercise in scrolling up and down a few times.

She starts off with some elementary descriptions and some basics.  Where she clearly defines some techniques she's going to use later.  While a lot of this is very elementary, it is useful to be clear before starting exactly what you mean by something, there are often several meanings for different things in this game.

I loved the section beginning sketches and the photography is very clear.  This is one I'd prefer in paper and within a few weeks it would end up festooned with post-its.  She's quite clear about the pros and cons of each cast-on and bind off, and also what they're good for.

This is one that's going on my wishlist, and I hope to buy it relatively soon.  I used it for a recent project when I was checking on a cast-on and found it very useful.

Complicated projects

I swear you'd never know that the Craft Council of America did a difficulty/skills rating for projects with some pattern books.

"1: Beginner Projects for first-time knitters using basic knit and purl stitches.
Minimal shaping.

2; Easy Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple
color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.

3. Intermediate Projects with a variety of stitches, such as basic cables and lace,
simple intarsia, double-pointed needles and knitting in the round needle
techniques, mid-level shaping and finishing.

4. Experienced Projects using advanced techniques and stitches, such as short rows,
fair isle, more intricate intarsia, cables, lace patterns, and numerous
color changes."

Now what surprises me is that socks are actually experienced. (I don't know if you read my minor rant about the rug pattern in the Jane Austen Sewing Box, but that's a beginner pattern) Short row shaping for the heel, throws it into experienced. However a sock can be so simple. No really. The heel is really the only complex bit and even then with a well written sock pattern if you follow the pattern it will happen. There are socks that require more brain power.

Now while I don't agree with them on a lot of this I do think that there are projects that fall into complicated that aren't. There are very few patterns that can't be made easier by a well written pattern.

The way I rate projects would be

1. Beginner, the kind of project that can be picked up and a subtitled movie watched by a relatively experienced knitter. Repetitive, simple, very little surprises. If an error is made a lifeline would really make no difference, probably a crochet hook could solve most problems (except knitting too much).

2. Easy. Something that could be knit on a commute without dropping too many things underfoot. May require you to put it aside if you're doing something that requires attention, but nothing that makes you scratch your head too much. A movie in your language could be watched but not with the lights out. A lifeline could possibly be useful for a less experienced knitter but a more experienced knitter would probably be able to rip and pick up without sweating too hard. I would actually put a plain pair of socks with a rib and plain leg here.

3. Intermediate. Some fussing will be necessary and there will be swearing if an error happens, more if a lifeline has been forgotten. You might be able to bring it on a commute but you would probably need a book or alternate distraction for moments that require some head scratching. You could probably watch a well-loved series, but may have to pause either the knitting or the TV occasionally. Socks would have complex patterning but toe and heel pretty straightforward

4. Experienced. Requires concentration. Swearing may require children to be kept well away. May require test yarn and needles to see where it's going wrong. Knitters may retreat to an alternate location to concentrate. A lifeline is essential if you don't want to rip the whole way to the beginning. Extra yarn should be factored in for the yarn ruined by repeated ripping. The item produced is somewhat of an art piece and other knitters will ooh and ah over the piece. Socks wouldn't be made with regular shaping or methods.


So anyone got any ideas? Comments?

increases

So I was just listening to a podcast and the knitter was talking about working out how to increase evenly over x stitches and they were saying that you just divide over the number of stitches and do that, but that's not exactly even (unless you're working in the round, for this I'm talking in the flat)

with 4 increases over 20 stitches, - is a stitch V is an increase, in this instance a lifted increase

-----V-----V-----V-----V with an increase at the end of the stitches

now if you divide by five, or number of increases+1 you will have

----V----V----V----V---- still with four increases but this time you have nice, evenly placed across things without an awkward stitch to sew up later!

But, you say, what about awkward numbers of stitches like six increases over 30?

30/7 is 4.2857.... or four stitches and two remaining so I would put five stitches either end and then four between increases

-----V----V----V----V----V----V-----

or put the two extra in the middle

----V----V----V------V----V----V----

or offset

----V----V-----V----V-----V----V----

though the thing to remember this is all dependent on the type of increase you do. If the increase involves the previous stitch, Kf&b for example, the top one would have been k3k1f&b etc.

So how do you cope with increases, with that wonderfully vague increase evenly over the row instructions?