Showing posts with label knitting history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knitting history. Show all posts

Wednesday, 14 November 2012

Ladybird Book About Knitting

Book Depository Link; Dublin City Public Libraries 
Ladybird Book About Knitting.

Wow, a serious flashback in this one, I remember using this book when I was much younger and I think I tried to knit a few things, but even I knew that my dad wouldn't be that impressed with a knit tie!

This book was part of a series by Ladybird that were about practical projects and originally published in 1972.  This is a facsimile edition of that one, so the needle size is in the old UK Imperial.  Size 8, by the way would be 4mm.

The advice to get some brightly coloured double knitting wool didn't say it had to be actual wool.

The first page of text is some do's and don'ts for better knitting, including washing your hands.
Then a list of essential supplies.  Needles, wool, scissors, sewing needle and bag.
How to create a slip knot is followed closely by an unnamed cast-on, the standard knitted-on cast-on considered pretty basic.
How to knit is followed by a small piece on Garter stitch and then how to cast-off.

The first project is a garter-stitch hair band that requires some help from "mother" to finish.

Purling comes next and an illustration of stocking stitch.  How to sew something together using an overstitch is followed by a pattern for a pincushion for "mother"

How to decrease is followed by a simple pocket money or change purse.

How to increase and then the backstitch seaming method is followed by a ball for a baby using increases and decreases, knit in five pieces

Making holes is followed by how to knit egg-cozies.  Then there's a blanket for a doll's pram, a pencil case, a bag and the aforementioned knit tie (which would appear to be at the end because it's knit using size 9 - 3.75mm needles and 4ply wool!)

It's funny, today there would be things like knitting in the round and probably brand-named yarns but this is simple and very basic and the illustrations are quite clear, wouldn't be a bad book to start someone off on


The libraries have got in a few copies.  Worth looking at for at least entertainment value.

Thursday, 23 August 2012

Aran Reader - some notes as I read

I'm on a short break, somewhat marred by a missing cat putting paid to some plans.

Then I heard that Vogue Knitting has published an article about Clan Arans... sigh.  While I'm reading this Aran Reader.

Book Depository Link, Dublin City Public Libraries link (yes, yes the copy I'm reading is the one circulating copy, I hope to have it back soon)

The Aran Reader is a book that gathers together writings about the Aran Islands from the earliest with Giraldus Cambrenis in 1220 to the 20th Century (published in 1991) with a variety of writings and opinions.  I'm mostly data mining it for mentions of knitting and the costume of the locals over the centuries.

I was mostly ignoring the bit about local names.  Didn't really think about it much the rest of the extract was sufficiently annoying in parts, anything written in 1893 with a title of Ethnography of the Aran Islands (published in the Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy) is guaranteed to be, at least patronising and at worst down right bigoted.

So the Local surnames, with frequency: (page 53)

Beaty              1
Brabson          1
Burke              5
Concannon     5
Conneely (1) 61
Cooke             5
Curlin              8
Coleman          1
Costello           8
Crampton        1
Davoran           1
Derrane (2)     57
Dillane              4
Donohoe         11
Duignan            3
Faherty (1)       78
Fallon                3
Fahy                  1
Flaherty (1)     80
Fitzpatrick (3)   5
Flanagan           1
Folan               18
Gauly (4)          1
Garvey              1
Gillan (5)          3
Gill                   6
Gould               1
Griffin              9
Hardy               1
Hernon            11
Hogan               1
Joyce               17
Kean                 5
Kelly                 4
Kilmartin (6)     1
Kennedy           1
Kenny               1
King                  1
Keilly                1
Kyne                 2
Lee                    2
Leonard             3
Maher                7
McDonagh       27
Millane               6
McNally             1
Mulkerrin           4
Mullin               20
Murray               2
Naughton           3
O'Brien              5
O'Donnell        20
O'Rourke           2
Powel              14
Quinn                2
Ryder (7)           1
Scofield             1
Sharry (8)          2
Toole                4
Wallace             3
Walsh                4

1) This name is found over the three islands
2) this name is confined (with exceptions of two families) to the large island
3) Originally from the King's County [Offaly]
4) Originally from Dublin
5) Originally from the North
6) From County Clare
7) Originally from Boffin Isle
8) Originally from County Clare
{apologies for the clunky formatting, I'm not too hot with this]

Sadly these names are in English only so no idea what names were in Irish, also the collector, a Seargeant Wm. Law of the Royal Irish Constabulary who said "I have omitted a few names such as those of Johnston, Chard, Kilbride and a few others of more ancient appearance on the islands." Also many of the names are names I came across during Primary and Secondary school years in Galway.

The names highlighted are the names that appear in the Clan Arans listing.

Now I may have missed a few, however I did try to find them being as general as possible.  Feel free to point out the ones I've missed.

Sadly the tradition of knitting stockings or socks is dying out, the socks described as having white heels and tops (cuff or toes?) with the rest being coloured.  Yes you can get them around Connemara but they're not regarded as something that we should be worried about or should try to preserve.  My father describes knitting heels by double knitting them, where they were knit into the front and back of the stitch and then the first stitch cast off over the second stitch.  He described them as very hard wearing but a pain to mend.  I wonder how socks were knit around Ireland and were there regional variations.

I have found no mention of knitted jumpers, just woven clothing with knitted socks, and I'm heading into the 20th century with what I'm reading in this book.

Monday, 6 December 2010

Irish Knitting History: cottages and clothing

In an article on Cottages and Farmhouses by Rosemary ffolliott mentions that "In pre-Famine days almost every house had a spinning wheel for making yarn, but this practice was largely discontinued (except in flax-growing areas) after 1850.

In Irish Ancestor Vol III No 2 (1971) in an article on Women's Dress in Ireland 1680-1880 by Rosemary ffolliott she discusses an engraving of a Girl of the County of Wicklow engraved in the 1780's she is portrayed "busily engaged knitting a sock: this was an endless female occupation, although strangely knitting was not used as a means of making other garments." (p88) the sock appears to be knit in the round and has just turned the heel, the colour seems to have changed from the foot to the heel, possibly indicating a different wool used, possibly coarser or thicker wool at that stress point.

In an article about Emigrating from the Limerick Workhouse 1848-1869 by Dr S C O'Mahony (Irish Ancestor Vol XIV no 2, 1982) discusses the fact that in 1848 some 750 inmates of Limerick Workhouse, largely girls, emigrated to several countries. There were three work schemes. One to New York (103 people, 10 male adults, 75 female adults and 18 children, where adults were anybody aged 15 or older), one to Van Diemen's Land (50 girls) and Quebec (112 girls under 25); they were bought an "outfit" having to take their own bedding and cooking utensils) this outfit consisted of "2 night caps, 1 pair of shoes, 1 gown, 2 combs, pins, needles and thread for sewing, needles and 1/2 lb cotton for knitting, 1 flannel petticoat, 2 aprons, 1 bonnet, 2 shifts, 1 wrapper, 1 shawl, 1 brush, 2 towels, 1 neck kerchief, 2 pairs of stockings, 2lbs of soap, 1 prayer book, 2yds of calico, 1 scissors, 1 canvas bag." I would say that the quantity, and the fact that this is only about 220g of yarn that this was probably fine yarn and fine needles.

In an article "Shall these Bones Live" by Rosemary ffolliott she talks about a famers wife "She too often spun yarn for sale, or got her elder daughters to do it, and she and they would knit all the socks for their menfolk, as well as turning a useful hand to the making of clothes."

In the article by Ms ffolliott Men's Clothes in Ireland 1660-1850 she briefly mentions knit stockings worn by men with knee breeches in 1783 "doubtless kntted by his wife".

From much of this it would appear that woven cloth was common and used in the main for clothing. Alice Starmores point that the Aran Knitter was a seamstress may have been as much that the woman who designed the garments was familiar with cutting and sewing garments and not that familiar with the potential of knitted garments. All of this points to Knitting being a relatively new and relatively underused skill in Ireland. A person familiar with how woven garments were put together would be inclined to think of garments as something which was designed and created in pieces and then sewn together.

The evidence also says that wool, cotton and linen thread was available fairly readily (silk would also have been available as Huguenot weavers brought in silk weaving and would have had silk thread, but this would have been beyond the price range of most people, and probably to fine for most knitters. The evidence also points at fine knitting, and while the knitted garments would only have been socks, there may have been domestic knitting as well in the form of doileys, bedspreads, and other such items.

This is an interesting topic to pursue, I would like to find more.

(edited for a minor correction)

Sunday, 5 December 2010

Irish Knitting History - 17th and 18th Century

There were also some more Quaker Inventories
Thomas Rushworth of Athy in Co Kildare in 1675 had in his shop (among other things)
Item, for wool, tips of horn and one hide

From a farmer and merchant, William Collins from 1750. He was apparently farming and trading in wool in Shinrone in Co Offaly (then King's County) with his brother.

There was a considerable list of items which included

Wool in the house in value and salt £9 15s 6d
Combed wool part in the house and part in the hands of spinners worth if to be got in £17
Spun worsted in the house worth £28 10s
Combing rings, hutch and press and wool Tub, wheel and lossett 10s
Combers Wool Tubb 4d

(his total in goods he had were £181 14s)

this indicates that he outsourced the spinning and that there only appeared to be one listing for a type of yarn suggests that there was a single weight of yarn.

In none of the listings are mentioned knitting needles, which may not have been considered of any value or may have been considered a woman's property and perhaps handed over to a daughter or friend.

Tuesday, 31 August 2010

Patons: a story of handknitting

Patons: A Story of Handknitting

Name of Book: Patons: A story of Handknitting
Author: Michael Harvey
Any other info: 0862541174, Springwood Books, 1985


Comments: this is a joint history of Patons the company and knitting in general, looking at some histories and trends, particularly as it impacts the company. It was comissioned by the company so it does have a tendency to emphasise the role of Patons in the industry. Now under the umbrella of Coats Crafts (a merger that dates back to 1961 and was formerly Coats Patons Ltd.) which also includes Viyella; Tootal; William Briggs; Rowan and Jaeger; Regia; Gedifra; Prym and Anchor are some of the other titles falling under this umbrella group but much of this later mergers aren't part of this book, as they post-date this book.

The original companies of Baldwin and Patons had been going since the 1770's and built themselves up until they merged. Forming a worldwide group spinning wool and making items from it.

While written by an academic it is dependent on available research so it's short piece about Aran knitting is infected by the Kiewe virus the author also notes that "It is interesting to note that some authentic Aran ganseys have horizontal bands of pattern, but though there are many variations in complexity and stitch arrangement, traditional Aran design has a unique and distinct flavour."p 110

Chapter 11 on knitting around the coastline and traditional knitted garments was an interesting read. The photographs are also interesting.

The postscript also makes for interesting reading. Writing at a time knitting was somewhat on the wane, when there were still people knitting as a way of saving, rather than today where pre-made goods are cheaper than hand-knitting and it's more a hobby than a necessity. In a pre-internet world he talks about using Teletext to transmit patterns and how it's an unexplored territory with potential. He also talks about television and knitting, something that is only really being re-explored in the US. His identification of Women's magazines as a staple of knitting pattern highlighting is no longer as valid as it was though recent flurries in the Letters Pages of the Irish-based Women's Way about the removal of the Knitting pages shows how essential it is to some people.

He also talks about how well entrenched the woolshop had become, something that over the next decade or so waned and how mail order was important, something that the internet also changed greatly.

He also states "Moving on to the social aspect, knitting equipment can be carried in a small bag and knitting can take place anywhere with little inconvenience - knitting is mobile. It is socially acceptable to do almost anywhere in non-formal, and even in some formal, gatherings. People can chat and knit, listen and knit, and travel and knit. Women's organisations give an impetus to knitting. People will knit for charity, blankets for the deprived in developing countries, sponsored 'knit-ins' - the satisfaction in all this is great and at the same time others are being helped." (p144) Sometimes even as things change they stay the same.

He also says "Concerning psychological factors, knitting is said to have a therapeutic effect. It is soothing and can help one relax, assuming the knitter does not select too complicated a set of instructions to follow. Above all there is the need many have to create, and knitting is creative. Choice of design, colour selection, knitting the fabric and the final product are the creation of the knitter, which leads to a great satisfaction being obtained from the completed garment." You only need to look at some projects on Ravelry, or indeed on the Knitting Elizabeth project to see how different people play with the same concept and how most of them produce something with variations, no matter how subtle. The concept that knitting is creative needs more emphasis!

Overall it's an interesting read, a slice of history of knitting in the UK and actually well complimented by No Idle hands which has a deeper look at knitting from a US point of view.

Buy/Borrow: If you're interested in history, read this one, it's available second hand in places, I got the copy I read from Dun Laoghaire/Rathdown libraries, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it's the only copy I could find in Borrowbooks. A slice of the knitting world that's quite interesting but focused on one company/supplier rather than several.

Where found: Dun Laoghaire Rathdown should have got their copy back ages ago from me, I've been bold. It's going back now.

Saturday, 6 February 2010

Irish Knitting - Patterns Inspired by Ireland


Irish Knitting: Patterns Inspired by Ireland (Hobby Craft) (US Amazon Link)
Name of Book: Irish Knitting - Patterns inspired by IrelandRavelry Link
Author: Rohana Darlington
Any other info: 0713633395, 1991, A&C Black

Types of patterns: Garments

Number of Patterns: 24: Cardigan (2); Tank top/sleeveless top (2); Childs Jumper (3); Jumper (14): Baby Layette (1, 4 part); baby dress (1); bedspread (1)
Split of patterns: Men/women/children

Size Range: 32"-43" not all patterns cover this range. But with the plain portions of the garments several of them would be very adaptable both up and down.

Colour/Black & White: Colour photos, black and white sketches, colour charts, written cabling instructions, often in panels.

Schematics: no, sketches of the garment

Target Audience: Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced/mixed

How to knit guide

Experimental/Classical/Modern

Comments: Pretty typical late 80's early 90's book, some of the patterns are a bit laughable but I think it could be useful for inspiration in places and in other places the patterns aren't too bad. The author also delves into history, visiting the National Museum and the Aran Islands as well as other places to delve into the history of Knitting in Ireland and doesn't perpetuate the Aran Jumpers Myth, she does detail some of the myths that have built up around it, but clearly stating that these myths have now passed into part of the story of the jumpers. She also notes which ones are newer designs than others. When she was finished talking with some people she went back to the National Museum and lodged her notes with them.

Yes there's no real shaping in the pieces and you would probably have to play with some of the designs to make them work but what's interesting about them is the completely different slant she has taken to Ireland and Irish design. She's exploring more of the heritage than I've seen many designers do and using it in different ways. A book that it would be interesting to use for concepts and ideas and maybe for some designers to look at to see if they too can play with the concept of Irish beyond cabling.

Pattern Links are to Ravelry
Newgrange Cardigan is an Alice Starmore meets Kaffe Fasset concept, the swirls of the entrance stone with a variety of yarns it's complicated and shapeless but an interesting idea, knit in 5mm needles with a bulky yarn and sport weight yarn, pictures notable for only showing back of the garment

Inishmore: uses Kilcarra Bulky yarn - a tank top with texture, designer wanted to capture the stone walls.

Crios uses DK for a childs jumper that captures the traditional belt or Crios used on the Aran Islands. Main body in bright red with colour bands on the bottom of the jumper, cuffs and top of sleeves

Torc is a sleeveless top knit in "Naturally Beautiful Aura 8/2 Silk" which sounds like fingering weight as it's knit on 2.75mm needles, plain with detail at top and hem

La Tene is another starmore/fassett work, this time in a jumper

Tara: Knotwork in the body and a torc type top, the colourwork is a bit off but it might work as a solid piece in another colour.

Kells Mosaic is a striped jumper with colourwork stripes, interesting but only for the thin

Dublin Silver is a double breasted shawl collar cardigan with colour and cableing,yeah.

Herald is a colourwork jumper with heraldic motifs. scary

Carrickmacross is a jumper worked in a nubby yarn with a lacework collar and cabled cuff and welt.

Shamrock Lace Layette is a heirloom christening set in white. There's a shamrock lace motif but otherwise not too twee, it is knit in very fine laceweight.

Primrose Petals is a baby dress in yellow with white trim, not the fussiest party garment for an infant I've seen.

Kerry Bedspread: Adapted from one crocheted in cotton in Listowel in the mid 19th century this is a spread knit in diagonal squares and then sewn together. Bobbles abound.

Sampler: In my humble opinion these belong on walls, as cross-stitch, the author disagrees and makes it into a jumper in 2ply shetland yarn no less!

Fisher Gansey: Red with moss stitch stripes this isn't a bad one of it's type, would probably suit a man

Diamond and Cable Aran - interesting rib detail with not too much cabling

Carrageen: not only modern designers show garments modelled in swimwear! Batwing jumper worked in one piece with cable running along the top of the sleeve and irish moss stitch body, original knit in Cotton DK.

Honeycomb Cable Aran - knit in aran wool, this has a cabled rib and cuffs and strap shoulder shaping

Betrothal Aran: heavily cabled with trinity stitch this is an interesting piece, blocky but the variation on the aran theme is interesting.

Rope Plait Aran - an aran weight jumper with some fairly heavy cabling this would be a good man's jumper, particularly if he likes boating.

Sailboats - Kids Jumper, inartasia but one for the boater. Not the worst of it's kind

Galway Racer - Kids Jumper with horses racing from side to side.

Seabirds is an adult jumper featuring an ocean, a few different textures of yarn for clouds and seabirds, I've seen much, much worse of it's kind.

Wild Fuschia - Plain jumper with fuschia along the neck and the sleeve top. Not something for me but not a bad jumper overall

Buy/Borrow: I'm adding it to my wishlist, I like some of the ideas and might try a few of the jumpers with some ammendations.

Where found: DUblin City Public Libraries has a few copies.

Tuesday, 26 January 2010

Knitting in 1939


Amazon.com Link: 1939: The Last Season

From 1939 The Last season by Anne De Courcy, I have been interested for years in the interwar period and this was an interesting read, as I was reading I was amused to come across these little snippets about knitting.

p5 "Society lived well. The rich drove Daimlers, Rolls-Royces and the now forgotten Lanchester (its selling point: 'At 50 m.p.h. you can knit comfortably')."

p184 "The habit of knitting in the ballroom, however, was becoming ever more popular. Needles clicked away merrily among the rows of chaperones sitting along the walls. Lady Acland, respponsible for starting the whole thing a few weeks earlier, brought an ambitious piece of work with her to one dance, a wool dress to which she managed to add several inches during the course of the evening. Even so, one chaperone who brought a mauve jumper she hoped to complete during a dance at Claridges did not have the courage to bring it into the ballroom when she realized everyone else was empty-handed, and left it bundled up ignominiously in the cloakroom."